The Budo Cool Guides
Budo Cool guide to Tokyo I
There’s a sense of wonder as you explore Tokyo, a feeling that anything is possible. It is a city layered with history and tradition waiting to be uncovered beneath its modern, neon-dominated façade. Tokyo is a must visit for any Budo enthusiast for it is an epicenter where you can experience and learn firsthand some of the age-old rituals and cultural practices of Budo, the “martial way”.
However, as a megalopolis of more than 20 million people and almost 882 rail stations, it feels almost impossible to grasp all the Budo-related attractions Tokyo has to offer. Almost.
That’s where we come in, beginning with a series of our personal list of must-visit areas in Tokyo that reflect the legendary spirit of the Cool Budo.
KUDANSHITA
Nippon Budokan
Kudanshita is located in the center of Tokyo, northside of the Imperial Palace. It’s most famous spot is undoubtedly the Nippon Budokan, the biggest and most iconic martial arts hall in the world.
The largest martial arts events in Japan are usually held here, from the All Japan Judo Championship to the famous Kobudo exhibition every January. It has also hosted legends like The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and even Britney Spears. How’s that for diversity?
The Budokan has its own dojo and there you can watch a wide range of different martial arts being practiced regularly.
Photo: REUTERS
Across the road your will find the notorious Yasukuni Jinja (靖国神社), which was was established in 1869 by Emperor Meiji with the intention of preserving peace for the nation and to commemorate Japan's war heroes. Unfortunately, this beautiful shrine has been surrounded by controversy in and outside of Japan because it also enshrines 1,068 convicted war criminals, of which fourteen are class A war criminals.
Regardless of the controversy, the shrine is a beautiful place, especially during Hanami season as it grounds are surrounded by hundreds of Cherry trees. Its beauty draws thousands during the viewing festival.
Old school shopping
Just in front of Yasukuni Shrine is the Budo shop, Sakuraya (櫻屋), a small but cozy martial arts shop that has been serving the Budo community for decades. You can find all the basics here, from uniforms to weapons. They even provide great embroidery service. The staff can feel cold but they are helpful and friendly, especially if you buy something!
Access
You can reach all the places mentioned above from Kudanshita Station via the Hanzomon, Tozai and Shinjuku Subway Lines.
From Tokyo Station Take the Marunouchi Subway Line from Tokyo Station to Otemachi (1 min) and then the Hanzomon Subway Line to Kudanshita Station (4 minutes). The one-way fare is 170 yen.
From Shinjuku Station Take the Shinjuku Subway Line directly from Shinjuku to Kudanshita Station. The one-way trip takes 8 minutes and costs 220 yen.
SUIDOBASHI
Kano Jigoro sensei welcomes you to Suidobashi.
When people think on this area, the first thing that comes to mind is baseball; the home base of the Yomiuri Giants. Here, the Tokyo Dome dominates the scene.
But, at the sides of the stadium, you can find a plethora of shops, events and even bars dedicated to traditional and modern martial arts. The most important site would be the Kodokan, the mecca of international Judo, and home of the Kodokan International Judo Center. The eight-floor building is equipped with everything Judo: a small souvenir shop and even a museum with historical documents and personal objects from Kano Jigoro sensei, the founder of Judo. If you’re up for it, bring your Gi and you can rub your shoulders with top global judoka. Entrance is free, and the friendly staff will guide you in any language possible!
Shopping spree warning
If you’re feeling adventurous, head back to the station, ignore all the people screaming on the roller coaster and to your right you will find at least 5 different martial art shops, from the good to the mysterious. Shobudo 尚武堂産業株式 will keep you busy for a while as they have an incredible variety of wooden weapons and real iaido swords. Most of these shops have a very traditional layout with a tatami area instead of a western counter. The small shop near to the corner, a real museum piece, Suidōbashi Shōkai (水道橋商会), will let you put your school patch on their wall if you buy a uniform from them.
Ready to rumble? Photo Ogawa Noburo
If you walk across the river you will find a total different ambience as Korakuen is a Pro Resu (Pro Wrestling) heaven with lots of bars, pachinko parlors and diverse types of Kakutogi (fighting arts) shops scattered around. Like many parts of Tokyo, you really need to explore and try your luck as many hidden treasures are waiting for you. Our favorite is Depomart, a place where you can find all kinds of Japanese Pro Resu souvenirs and memorabilia, including live events with famous wrestlers.
Access
You can reach all the places mentioned above from Suidobashi Station on the JR Chuo Line or from Korakuen Station (served by the Marunouchi and Namboku Subway Lines)
From Tokyo Station 8 minutes and 170 yen by Marunouchi Subway Line or 10 minutes and 160 yen by JR Chuo Line with a transfer from the orange rapid service to the yellow local service at Ochanomizu Station.
From Shinjuku Station 15 minutes and 170 yen by yellow JR Chuo Line.
SHINJUKU
Shinjuku feels like a different city itself. Its JR station is one of the busiest train stations in the world, handling over 3.6 million passengers a day. That’s why it is important to know where and what time to visit the area as you will most likely spend a long time figuring out which exit to take.
Edo prêt à porter Photo:TimeOut
The Samurai Museum, a 8-minute walk from JR Shinjuku Station’s East Exit, is located in the nightlife area of Kabukicho. Here you can admire Yoroi samurai armors, weapons and different pieces from different warrior ages. It can feel a little bit touristy, but it does make for a great place to geek out. Heck, you can even have your picture taken with a full-on Samurai armor replica.
Ki strong here
A little further away from the main Shinjuku area, but technically still within the Shinjuku ward, you can find the headquarters of the two most important Aikido styles in the world. The Aikikai Hombu dojo in Wakamatsu-cho houses the Aikikai Foundation, overseeing the style of O’Sensei around the world. They have very strict rules to practice, as you need to be member of Aikikai. Even if your dojo belongs to the organization, you need to ask for permission to take part in the training. You are welcome to watch classes, but again, etiquette must be respected.
The home of the angry pijamas
The other dojo, Yoshinkan Hombu is located in Takadanobaba. Although it is the home of the “hard” style of Aikido, their approach to visitors is a little bit more relax. Famed for their ‘senshusei’ program (where students train along the Tokyo Anti-Riot Police) the dojo’s cozier feeling provides a stark contrast to its image.
Tis but a scratch
An interesting addition to your tour could be a visit to Castle Tintagel a center for the study of European medieval martial arts in the heart of Mejiro, where you can witness duels between armored and unarmored urban knights!.
Access
From Tokyo Station The frequently departing, orange trains on the JR Chuo Line (Rapid Service) take less than 15 minutes and cost 200 yen from Tokyo Station to Shinjuku Station.
From Ueno Station By JR Yamanote Line it takes 25 minutes and costs 200 yen to get from Ueno to Shinjuku. A slightly faster alternative is to take the JR Yamanote or JR Keihin-Tohoku Line from Ueno to Kanda Station, and then the JR Chuo Line from Kanda to Shinjuku.
RYOGOKU
A quintessential spot in Tokyo, Ryōgoku attracts hordes of tourists mainly by the Kokukigan or Sumo stadium. But if you happen to visit during off season, you will probably end up getting distracted and taking pictures of the massive building and the cute statues around the stations. What most people don’t know, however, is that most of the main Sumo Beya or Sumo training stables are in the surrounding area of the stadium.
Just heavy weights here.
You have to remember that Rikishi or sumo wrestlers are professional athletes. So, their practice is serious business. A crowd of tourist taking pictures, chatting and laughing is not always welcomed. Imagine yourself being in your office and 20 unknown people taking picture of your behind!
Some Beya allow visits and even have special designated spaces to watch the training, like Arashio Beya as with everything in Japan, there’s a procedure you need to follow. Oh, and you have to wake up VERY early, too. But nevertheless, the experience is worth the sacrifice.
King size gentleman welcome
The wrestlers’ life is based around the training grounds, so naturally, their lifestyle (eating and shopping) is centered around it, too. With a average weight of 190 kg and heights above 180 cm, Rikishi can’t exactly rely on GAP as a clothing option. Not a problem as Lion-Do is a famous shop specializing in oversized size clothes, from the traditional and super cool Yukata to the latest hip hop inspired t-shirts for younger wrestlers.
Breakfast of the champions (lunch and dinner included)
So, have all this walking gotten you hungry? Well, you’re in luck as Ryogoku is one of the best place to be hungry. After retirement, most wrestlers use their skills acquired at the Beya kitchen to open Chanko Nabe joints, featuring the protein packed stew that help build that legendary sumo frame. You can try going to Terao, (run and managed by the former baby face rikishi Terao’s brother) but be sure to come with an empty stomach as a nonstop parade of chicken, tofu, beef, pork and cabbage awaits you. With all that eating, you might even feel ready to challenge the next rikishi you meet in the street! Although, we suggest otherwise, of course.
With all said and done, as the day comes to a close, what better way to cap all that exploring and sightseeing than with a nice cold beer at a bar. Not just any bar, mind you… the best beer bar in the whole Japan!
Great memories (blurry) but memories.
Popeye is an old inhabitant of Ryogoku and it serves the best traditional craft beers from Japan and the world. The place is always packed so make a reservation early. You could, of course take a gamble and walk in, but even then, you’ll get a table for a limited time only. One last advice... with over 100 kinds of beer on the menu, you’d better choose wisely. Kampai!
Access
Take the JR Sobu Line or Oedo Subway Line to Ryogoku Station.
There you have, Tokyo is a city full of amazing places reflecting amazing Budo culture and this is just the tip of the iceberg. In future posts, we’ll get more in detail and try to help you planning the perfect Budo Cool tour. Subscribe to our newsletter to receive the next post. Osu